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| PHILADELPHIA INQUIRER It's been said you can't go home again, but Nathan Dolente thought he'd give it a try. Of course things wouldn't be exactly the same, but somehow, he believed, it could still be home. So about a year ago, a restaurant appropriately called L2 opened at 22d and South, where, way back in 1983, Dolente and a partner created and operated Linoleum, a hip, '50-ish restaurant. In its day, Linoleum was a huge favorite and had a great run before closing in 1989. In 1996 Stephen Starr, of Old City's Continental, leased the building from Dolente and turned the place into a caviar-vodka bar with borscht and blinis called Cafe Republic. After what added up to about a Russian winter, it closed. "It was a cool place," Dolente said, recalling Cafe Republic, "and when [Starr] left, I just decided to go back in business." The new L2 - at least to me - has pretty much the same warm feel of the old restaurant. On a first visit to Linoleum, I commented that the ceilings were so high the dining room could accommodate a giraffe wearing a high hat. I don't think that has changed. There are some physical differences, including a new bar area filled with old paintings, some with country scenes and others that Dolente likes to call "grand dame women." Hardwood floors lead you to the mellow dining room, with its built-in distressed look - exposed brick that creates a sense of classic country Italian. Dolente likes to think of the new L2 as a grown-up version of himself. "We did more of a '50s thing back [in the Linoleum days]. Now we're more '90s." Dolente is also the chef, and his attention to quality and value, as well as thoughtfully rotating specials, gives depth to the small menu. Huge salads are crisp and colorful. Mixed lettuces ($4.50) is a basic spring mix salad with a light Dijon mustard vinaigrette. The L2 Salad ($5.50) features a fruity raspberry vinaigrette clinging to a toss of red leaf lettuce, toasted walnuts, pears and Gorgonzola cheese. Meat loaf ($10.50) is not your routine bricklike lump of meat, but a moist and flavorful blend of ground beef with minced carrots, celery, onion. The cut looks a bit peculiar - it's about two inches by eight inches - but Dolente had a practical reason: "My pans are big, so I make it big." Pasta Mikie ($10) features nicely drained penne with prosciutto in a light, smooth pink sauce. This dish had been a popular entree - with another name - at the old Lickety Split, where Dolente worked after Linoleum closed. It's also available as an appetizer ($5). Chicken pot pie ($11), which uses flaky puff pastry instead of the traditional pie pastry, is new to the menu and will remain through the winter. Dolente also plans to keep the 10-ounce pork chop, marinated in apple juice and stuffed with sweet sausage, dates and apples ($14) around for a while. There is a grilled tuna with an Asian-style dipping sauce ($15) and a salmon special ($14) most nights. For strict vegetarians, a nightly entree is available ($9). The dining room, which seats about 35, is smoke-free, but for those who like a cigarette with dinner, there is dining in the bar area. And don't worry about those tilted shelves behind the bar - the bottles can't slide off. When the shelves begin to look straight, then it's time to worry. Back to top of page |
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